Russian reindeer leather is world’s finest leather. It is sought-after due to its tough appearance, durability and versatility.
Novgorod shoemakers created four principle kinds of shoes. They had a close relationship with makers and the market was typical of the time. Shoes were wide and symmetrical at the front, and were narrow in heels.
Traditional Russian shoes
The Valenki boots (also known as volnushechki or vykhodki) are a heavy, wool-filled winter boot that are provided to Russian soldiers and police officers. These tough boots that literally mean “made by felting” are a Russian tradition of the Mongol tribes and were once so costly that they covered the feet of tsars and empresses.
Valenki made by hand are incredibly robust but also take a lot of effort and time. Craftsmen roll and shape the felt to form the shape of a boot, and then transfer it to the steam bath, where it is repeatedly dipped into hot water in order to shrink. It takes a few hours to create a pair of valenki, that can cost hundreds of dollars.
Despite their pricey cost, the traditional boots have remained popular throughout Russia’s long history of winters. Over the past two decades, however they’ve been losing popularity as people opt for lightweight and more waterproof shoes.
Yet, many young Russians are finding a way to revive their fondness for the traditional shoes. Olga Shantseva and Galina Shantzeva, twins based in Moscow make birchbark shoes that are decorated with Soviet art, making these shoes very popular with young artists. The Russian brand of valenki is also gaining popularity in other countries. The boots are enjoying a resurgence of fashion in Russia.
Ancient Russian leather shoes
Detailed study of archaeological evidence, ethnographic and written sources allows to reconstruct development of shoe styles in the early Rus’. The number of shoes made of leather discovered during excavations that were conducted during different times in Novgorod’s life indicates that shoemakers from all categories were involved in making shoes for the artisanal as well as noble classes.
In the countryside, people wore Lapti, comfortable shoes made of the thin pieces of bark from trees. Birch was the most popular choice. They were secured with rawhide laces that were passed through the side slits on the soles and wound around the feet. They were also placed over stockings (nogavits and the hose) as well as windings (obmotokthe obmotok.
Hand-embossed patterns of hatch grain are seen on the oldest Russian boots. The best Russian reindeer hide is tanned by machine to make it durable and hardwearing. The leather is frequently compared to the best horsehide, however unlike horsehide, it’s not brittle, which makes it a good choice for making shoes.
The first shoes made of felt were referred to as valenki. The name derives from the method they used to make them. The felt was compressed by the tool known as “valenka”. The block of wood features a flat surface as well as multiple holes, on which the wool was rolling. In Russia the process is known as “valyat” meaning rolling. After a while, felt boots could be constructed using other materials. They could be filled with animal hair or hay to provide additional durability and insulation, and the heel quarter was sturdier by lined with stiff leather or Birch bark.
Medieval Russian shoe designs
The medieval Russian leather giay luoi nam were inspired by the peasant’s shoes made of birchbark. They were worn over stockings, or nogavits, and windings [obmotok]. The shoe’s closure was achieved with long strings, called obory, which were passed between the laces and tied around the laces. The footwear also had a sole of Larch bark or the fir. The footwear was extremely comfortable and robust.
The artisan who worked on the shoe was required to be exceptionally skilled to create a high-quality product. It’s not surprising to find the numerous fragments of the type of shoe found in archeological layers that date back to the 10th-13th centuries.
According to the First Novgorod Chronicle, at the time, there were separate groups of leatherworkers as well as shoemakers. It has been confirmed that only a person who had an atelier where they sewed footwear was able to be classified as a shoemaker.
Bakhily, sometimes referred to as bredni (also called brodni) or butyli (also known as lovechagi, ostashi and lovchagi), are men’s hunting and working boots made of soft leather. They were jackboots that had high tops that reached the knees or thighs. The boots were made from a durable material that could be used for a long period of time in the woods. They were also worn by hunters and fishermen.
Soviet-era Russian footwear
The Soviet time period witnessed the decline of the traditional Russian shoemaking, because the younger generation of crafters preferred modern shoes from Western countries. The decline in traditional Russian shoe making was the result of a number of factors including an absence of interest by youth in handmade goods and the increased supply of factory-made shoes, and a change in the preference.
During this period, the footwear of choice was galoshes. They were made of felt and worn with other shoes to guard against ice and snow, in addition to keeping the wearer’s feet warm. The leather pieces were placed on top of each other and joined and then sewn using concealed or blind stitching.
The Kazan Khanate was a dynasty that inherited Volga Bulgarian culture, traditions, and crafts from the Mongol conquest, also wore footwear constructed of bast. They were similar to normal boots, but they were shorter in length and didn’t have the liner. They were fastened using long strings, called obory, which ran along the side of the lapti, and then wound around the legs.
Novgorod leatherworkers were known for their specialization in bootlegs that were short and straight sides. These were called golenishcha, or golenicha. Their heights were 17-22 centimeters. The iron adzes were discovered in the layers of the period. They were used to remove subcutaneous tissue and flesh from the leather.
